Hiking | Poet’s Table, Little Devil’s Tower, Cathedral Spires

Not everything goes as planned, no matter how carefully the plan is crafted. We had a little miscommunication and our hiking group ended up in three separate groups all hiking at different times. And in the Black Hills, cell reception is extremely spotty, so even though we only miscommunicated by about a mile, it wasn’t easy straightening things out. We did meet up and hiked most of the way mostly together, but we got a chuckle out of our miscommunication.
2018-09-03_04-42-33The hike was supposed to include only Little Devil’s Tower and Cathedral Spires, but due to some extra time, Axel and I sneaked in Poet’s Table as well before the three groups managed to get back together. Poet’s Table was recently the subject of a vandalism, when a few girls actually sawed the table in half and carried it away, along with all the decades of notebooks stored in the cupboard. Needless to say, there was some significant backlash, to the point that the whole situation was utterly ridiculous, but at least there is a new table now, and a plaque was added with a short poem by John Raeck, the Vagabond Poet, who founded Poet’s Table decades ago:

“A castle that secluded lies
Beyond the gates of Paradise,
A soul-restoring mountain ark
In South Dakota’s Custer Park;
Where time and life are reconciled,
And man-of-years is like a child.”

~The Vagabond Poet, John Raeck2018-09-03_10-13-59To the west, the sky was looking somewhat ominous, but I decided to risk it and stated boldly, “Oh, it doesn’t really look like rain.”

It rained.

Half an hour later, when we had met up with some of the rest of our group, the sky was darker and we began to get sprinkled on. It picked up until it was a happy little gusty thunderstorm. I was sure thrilled with the White Sierra rain jacket I had found at a thrift store in Bozeman! Things were clearing up pretty well when we met up with the last two in our group, who had actually waited out the storm on or near Little Devil’s Tower, but were game enough to climb back up to the top with the rest of us. And yes, it is a climb. Not a long one, but definitely a hands and feet kind of scramble at times. Gale force winds met us on the way up, but calmed down over the next twenty minutes, as the rest of the storm pushed east. The 360 degree view from Little Devil’s Tower was incredible, with the storm working its way mostly south of us, the glories streaming through holes in the clouds, and virga on the edges of the bands of clouds. We reveled in the glorious views of Harney Peak, the Cathedral Spires, and distant hills. The storm pushed the smoke from the western fires away, and we enjoyed the sight of blue skies overhead. 2018-09-03_04-42-082018-09-03_04-35-272018-09-03_04-42-222018-09-03_04-36-282018-09-03_04-35-502018-09-03_04-36-08The sun was very westward when we hiked into the Cathedral Spires, which is a beautiful, short hike, with some steady elevation gain. I love how different the terrain and landscapes will be within such a short area, from the wide meadows and open hillsides around Little Devil’s Tower, to the sheltered, tree clad slopes around the Cathedral Spires. Some climbers clung like spiders to the sheer rock faces of the Spires, and a few mountain goats meandered down a little lower near the trail. Chokecherries were thick along parts of the trail. 2018-09-03_04-32-392018-09-03_04-33-492018-09-03_04-34-592018-09-03_04-33-342018-09-03_04-34-19These trails are often mentioned individually as destinations, but the three together made for a wonderful afternoon hike. We got back to the trail head around 8pm, with dusk settling and the cool air moving in. The summer is fading fast, but while it is here, we’ll enjoy it!

Hiking | Sunday Gulch

I don’t know how I’ve spent so much time hiking in the Hills and hadn’t hiked Sunday Gulch. It just may be now my favorite hike in the Hills. It may have supplanted Hell Canyon as #1, believe it or not. It also happens to be one of the eight hikes on the Custer State Park Trail Challenge, but unfortunately we kind of forgot about that and didn’t find the bronze relief medallion to take a rubbing as proof that we did the hike. Oh, well.
IMG_0350eSunday Gulch is rated as moderately strenuous, and is mapped at 3.9 miles in length. The trailhead is at the far end of Sylvan Lake. Due to the steep and rugged bouldered part of the trail, I definitely wouldn’t recommend it for kiddos with their little legs, but it is a doable hike, for sure. We hiked the loop clockwise, leaving the steep stuff for the end, but hiking it counterclockwise would get that all over with in the first half hour or forty-five minutes. It was the perfect length for an afternoon, and I’m guessing will be particularly stunning on an autumn day, due to the large number of hardwoods that will turn color before too long! We’ll have to hike it again, clearly.IMG_0352eWe hiked Sunday Gulch on a very rainy, wet afternoon, just after a heavy downpour and during the ensuing drizzle, listening to gentle grumblings of thunder and the patter of raindrops on our waterproofs. The clouds were low and hung low over and between the tops of mountains and granite spires. The first half of the trail, if you hike the loop clockwise, winds through granite spires and formations, along a creekbed, through open and forested terrain. Some great views of the Hills are visible in the first half mile or so.IMG_0345eThe trail, due to the rain during and for weeks previous to this hike, was in many places a muddy, soggy, puddled mess. And slippery. At times the trail narrowed to little more than a deer trail, with wet shrubby undergrowth nearly overgrowing the trail. I tried to keep my feet dry for awhile, but eventually even the waterproofing on my boots wasn’t enough to keep out all the wet. Which was fine.IMG_0362eIMG_0357eThe first half of the hike is beautiful, of course (it’s the Black Hills, after all), but when the trail finally emerges in the gulch, the trail is breathtaking. Here in particular, the trail became rather mysterious, and we could see under the not-gently flowing water the trail was there somewhere. Beautiful, moss-draped trees towered up between the walls of Sunday Gulch, and little rivulets of water spilled delicately down the faces of the rock. Ferns clung in closely to the damp earth. The creek chattered noisily, the waterfalls churned, and still the rain fell gently.IMG_0372eIMG_0405e

IMG_0412eIMG_0384eAfter the gulch, the fun begins. The trail climbs rather steeply through a bouldered creekbed. Although I generally like trails with no manmade helps, the handrails were nice, particularly given how slippery the boulders were, and it was helpful that it marked a route up. The boulders were big enough in places that finding a route through them, particularly with a creek flowing through them, would have been pretty laborious. I’m guessing this trail is usually drier, with the creek generally well-contained. But as I mentioned, we’ve had a wet summer, and this was a wet day. In many places, water was flowing over the bouldered trail. Keeping dry feet no longer seemed as important.IMG_0428eIMG_0432eThe following pictures are of my favorite part in the trail, simply due to humor. Yes, that’s the trail, or was the trail, going between those two boulders. Dryness no longer seemed even remotely important. It was entirely futile to even attempt to keep dry, so we embraced the water. Under the little waterfall is a staircase. We all got quite wet.IMG_0443eIMG_0446eIMG_0447eThe loop trail starts and ends at Sylvan Lake, and we emerged into a silvery drifting fog bank that enveloped and released the spires across the Lake. We drove down to Custer to get ice cream, but some of us were absolutely freezing by this time, since we been soaked and were now evaporating. Coffee and a muffin sounded better than ice cream. So we stopped at the Bank Coffee House in Custer, a historic bank that was renovated to be a coffee shop. They have coffee and ice cream. Excellent.IMG_0461eIMG_0524eWhat a wonderful, glorious, wet, cold, rainy, humid, delightful day.

 

 

Keeping Cool

Nothing like a hike to the local swimming hole on a hot day! It is a little too well known now, but it is still fun. And with all the rain we’ve had, there is a lot of water gushing over the falls right now! Lots of wildflowers, very few ticks, LOTS of poison ivy. And by the time we got down to Big Falls, the canyon was in the shade, so for those of us not inclined to swim, we could still cool off. Hah. It was fun watching/heckling Anna as she tried to get up the nerve to cliff jump, and jump she did! Katie, Sarah, and Jess were adventurous enough to swim against the current and get right up next to Big Falls. That’s a lot of water!
IMG_8469eIMG_8473eIMG_8492eIMG_8509eIMG_8531eIMG_8521eIMG_8466eOh, the fun we have in the summertime.

Footsore and Fancy Free

“It is not so much for its beauty that the forest makes a claim upon men’s hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air that emanates from old trees, that so wonderfully changes and renews a weary spirit.”

~Robert Louis Stevenson

Two parts of an adventure are the best. The beginning, when I’m fresh and excited. And the end, when I’m exhausted and delighted. There’s all the good stuff in the middle, too, of course. But the anticipation and reflection are the really, really good stuff.IMG_8553eThere’s almost nothing I love better than setting out on an old two-track or faded foot path, or leaving the trail altogether and just wandering. I love the mystery of what lies around that next bend, or over that next hill, or through that stand of trees. So much of our life is mechanically predictable, or we attempt to make it that way. Society tells us to make it that way. We try to set our routine, to know what we’re doing and where we’re going. We like being in control, being efficient, being safe. We like predictable. And that’s good for the functioning of society, and good for making the most efficient use of one’s time. But sometimes it drives me absolutely crazy. Because sometimes I just want to not know what will happen.

Because there is that part of the heart that longs for adventure, newness, and a little bit of risk. There is that hunger for not knowing, for the thrill of the unknown delight. When a person sets out on an adventure, as much as we might think we know how it will go and what will happen, we don’t know. We are taking a risk, however small, in that beyond that next bend, what is there is utterly unknown to us.

Ah, yes. Those first steps of an adventure are glorious. IMG_8716eAnd then there’s the end of the trail. All the beauty and exhilaration still rings in my mind. I’m sweat-soaked, tired, and footsore. I’ve seen what was around that corner, I’ve looked over that hilltop, I’ve gazed into the valley, stared hard at wildflowers, and watched the sunlight filter through the trees. I’ve felt the heat, breathed deep of the clean air, and basked in the cool damp under the trees. I’ve tasted of the goodness of Creation.   IMG_8630eI’ve listened to the quiet, which is the hush and song of nothing…and everything. The untouched landscape is matchless in beauty. And sometimes it is those tiny delights that are the best: the reflection of the sunlit trees in a puddle, or a glowing flower, or the lights and shadows in that certain place where the hills meet just so, or where the trail bends out of sight. IMG_8583eI’m forever thankful to live in a place where God’s beauty and glory and creative might are so evident, and so easily evident. I don’t have to hunt for them. His marvels aren’t covered over with concrete, or constantly interrupted by power lines and apartments and shopping centers. All I have to do is to look, to gaze with eyes desiring to see.  When I see so much beauty and my heart is stirred, it is as if Jesus is saying softly, “Remember me, I’m here.” May my heart never harden to His attributes seen so clearly in His Creation. May they never become commonplace, but always mysterious and wonderful.IMG_8693eThe new trail, the new peak, or something as small as that new wildflower….or the familiar trail, familiar peak, or familiar wildflower….those are delights that speak to my soul. I want to feel deeply, to ache with the beauty of God’s Creation. I want to sweat, to be sore and tired and renewed.

In short, there’s nothing quite like being footsore and fancy free.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hiking | Bear Mountain

Bear Mountain is the third highest point in the Black Hills, at an elevation of 7166 feet, boasting a manned fire lookout tower and lovely views of the Hills. Hiking distance is roughly 5 miles round trip – I think we clocked in just a little under 5 miles, and about 2 1/2 hours: an hour and a half up, and an hour back down. And yes, it is up the entire way, with very little on the level, so if that isn’t your cup of tea, be forewarned. That said, until the last half mile or mile, it is mostly a pretty easy grade, just enough to make a relatively short hike a good workout.
IMG_8555eIMG_8562eThe trail winds through pine and birch forest, through a few gorgeous open meadows, and exposed hillsides allowed for wonderful views of the northern Hills. Everything was lushly adorned with summer flowers. Wood lilies, wild roses, lupine, blanket flower, harebells, and showy deathcamas were only a few of the jewels to be found on the mountain. Definitely a great area for wildflower hunting and identification.IMG_8601eIMG_8607eIMG_8590eAll the moisture we’ve had made for some muddy hiking, and a little ephemeral spring turned part of the trail into a trickling creek. Absolutely beautiful.IMG_8558eThe forest was dense and heavily shaded but without the sickly feeling of certain other areas in the Hills – it felt vibrant and alive, like a forest out of Narnia or Middle Earth. The rich understory grew greenly beneath the heavy canopy. The moisture in the air felt good, and I reveled in the satisfying feeling of sweat trickling from my forehead. We certainly worked up a sweat on this hike. And then the views from the top! I had hoped there’d be a ranger on duty so we could go up into the tower, but we didn’t get to the top until about 7pm, and there is only someone there to meet visitors until 4pm. I will make sure to consider that next time we hike to the top. Either way, though, the views were breathtaking. IMG_8641eIMG_8663The slant of the light as we neared and came into golden hour made for some wonderful wildflower and landscape photographs. I’ve officially changed my stance on when during the day the hiking should begin. I used to think it was a good idea to get an early start to enjoy some cool weather while hiking. I’ve recanted on that position. Now, I’ve come to the conclusion that the best plan for a hike is starting in the afternoon during the heat of the day and finishing as the sun goes down. Not only are the temperatures cooling, but the light is absolutely delicious, and gets better as the day wears on, rather than the other way around. Starting early, unless you start really early, you may never have particularly good light, and it will only get worse as the day wears on. Golden hour is magical. IMG_8620eBear Mountain is officially on my list of favorite hikes, and given the number of aspen trees, it would be glorious in the fall! I’m already looking forward to going back!

 

Hiking | Mount Baldy

Mount Baldy is behind Mount Rushmore. Old Baldy is near Spearfish. However, some maps have Mount Baldy labeled as Old Baldy. And the register box at the top of Mount Baldy says “Old Baldy.” Someone got their wires crossed, somewhere along the line. Anyway, it was a beautiful day for a hike, and to Mount Baldy we went. We had a group of thirteen, I think, trekking cheerily through the springing afternoon. The trails and sights in the Mount Rushmore area are truly stunning. The granite spires pierce from the ground towards the sky. Large boulders perch precariously on top of larger boulders, which is essentially what Mount Baldy is. A very, very large boulder pile.IMG_5022eIMG_5029eMoss and kinnikinnick provided lush ground cover, and stands of stately aspen caught the sunlight in their white branches. They, too, will be green soon. Cairns were stacked carefully at intervals along the less-visible part of the trail. They were few enough that not seeing them didn’t mean we weren’t on the right trail, but seeing them suggested that we were. IMG_4922eIMG_4967eIMG_5016eIMG_5007eIMG_4972eIMG_4971eI’m not going to attempt to provide any sense of direction for this hike, or what trails to take, other than to say that the trailhead is at the Wrinkled Rock climbing area, the segment of the trail we did was only about 3.5 or 4 miles round trip, and the right direction is up. If you can go higher, you’re not there yet. It is an exhilarating chore to get to the top. A fair amount of elevation gain is packed into a relatively short hike. The last 20 or so minutes to the top is nothing short of a rough scramble, finding foot and hand holds on steep rock faces, squirming up narrow and deep crevasses. I’ve never been much for scrambling. Perhaps I’ve taken too many falls on level ground, and had one too many close calls on the ladder up to our loft bedroom. Clumsiness creates some paranoia. But I have to say, it was great fun. And the views from the top were unbelievably beautiful.
IMG_4956eIMG_4953eIMG_4942eWe didn’t linger at the top, since a freezing gale was blowing up there and we’d left the warmth a few levels down. We admired the views, signed the register, snapped some pictures, and scrambled and slid back down the way we had come. The sun was just getting low when we got back to the trailhead. A great afternoon hike. The perfect hike to kick off the spring hiking season!