Strange Neighbor

We’ve had our share of rattlesnake encounters over the past few years, including three that our dad has killed up by my grandma’s house. So sorry, to anyone who might be offended by that. But Dad can’t hear the rattle, so it really is a matter of safety, and our uncle’s dog got bitten by one two years ago, so we’re inclined to have a little animosity towards the critters. But I digress. When I got home last night and saw one of the kittens headed towards something darkly colored and mottled and narrow lying in the grass, I had a little panic moment. I kind of love our cats. But when it didn’t strike them (and when I got more than a quarter-second impression and reaction), I inspected the critter closer and found this ugly cute salamander.
2018-09-08_10-18-212018-09-08_10-18-04He was a large variety (the shoe is for scale), and wasn’t too happy the kittens were inspecting him. We’ve never really encountered these out here at our place, since there isn’t ever really any permanent moist-ness, but there he was. I scooped him into a box and deposited him a ways away, since I read that salamanders, including the western tiger salamander (this guy) are toxic to a certain extent and figured I’d get him out of the cats’ reach. I’d be more than happy for some input from anyone who knows more than the internet on this matter, especially since my experience is that the internet tends to exaggerate. For instance, I read that aloe is poisonous to cats, but I have a friend who had an aloe plant, until her cat ate it. The cat was fine.

Anyway, what a strange neighbor.

This Fine and Pleasant Misery

Sometimes I think so long about a blog post that it becomes irrelevant. But this is one I pored over for so long, and really got such a kick out of writing it, I really do want to share it. So even though the summer is pretty much over, and temps these days are hovering in the 70s in general, or lower, I remember the following events from this summer keenly. And even though the summer is over, the sentiment still remains. I hope you enjoy the article!

When the indoor thermometer is reading 85 degrees and the humidity is somewhere near 70% and I’m about to head to bed, or I’m dripping sweat (literally) while washing the dishes, it is awfully tempting to complain. And it has sure been tempting to complain. The last few days haven’t been just hot (for the Black Hills), they’ve been muggy. I’m a cool weather person, but eighty-five degrees is generally pretty nice, and even 90 degrees isn’t terrible, but with the current humidity, 85 indoors feels like a sauna. It is ridiculous. Miserable, actually. We make good use of our box fans.
IMG_9013eIn spite of the heat and the exquisite misery of working or even just walking around in said moist cloud of heat the last few days, I have found myself thankful for our lack of air conditioning. It is a whole lot easier to put up with exertion in summer heat when one is unaccustomed to air conditioning. Truly. My truck lacks it, my cabin lacks it, my church lacks it, and I work (and play) outside. It is also a lot easier to convince myself to stay outside when it isn’t much better inside. Sometimes it’s worse.

But those aren’t the only reasons I’m thankful for lack of air conditioning.

(“Why in the world is she writing about air conditioning?” you’re probably asking yourself by now. Fair question. Keep reading.)

I’m thankful because comfort is so prosaic and lack of air conditioning is such a trivial discomfort.

(“Okay, prosaic? What does she mean by that?”)

Prosaic: unromantic and commonplace. Yes, I’m a romantic at heart. And by romantic, I don’t mean a chick-flick kind of romantic. I mean more…I don’t know…a Lord of the Rings or Master and Commander kind of romantic.

Think of your favorite book. If the protagonist had stayed comfortable, the story would never have happened. Think of the most exciting times in history, when change was happening and people were adventuring and exploring and discovering new things. If they had chosen comfort, physical or otherwise, those events never would have happened.

Air conditioning isn’t just about our temperature preference. Sixty or seventy years ago, air conditioning was essentially nonexistent. And people dealt with the heat. But we’ve changed. Being comfortable has become a priority.

Our culture idolizes comfort. And of course I’ve fallen victim to this myself. We like to be comfortable, and we like to be comfortable now. (Too hot? Turn on the air. Too cold? Turn on the heat. ) But it goes deeper. We don’t like the discomfort of being inconvenienced (I’ve written about this before in my post “The Freedom of Inconvenience”). We don’t like hurting. (Headache? Here’s a Tylenol.) We don’t like being exhausted. (Coffee, coffee, coffee.) We don’t like being hungry or thirsty. (Easy access to food and water all the time.)

Something about how comfortable we are in general makes me uncomfortable. Because we as a culture have gotten soft. Terribly soft.

But it isn’t just physical discomfort we avoid. We don’t like being afraid. We don’t like feeling or looking foolish. We don’t like being wrong. We don’t like people thinking we are wrong. We don’t like being uncertain. We’re afraid of having too little, failing too hard, hurting too much, sweating too profusely, and of feeling too much.

In general, we don’t know what it is to struggle or to face real fear. We read stories of deployed service members, or missionaries in third world countries and we shake our heads in sympathy, but we are so disconnected from the reality of their struggles, we can’t relate! We value comfort and pleasure and those are what we pour our energies into achieving. We’ve lost our enjoyment of or appreciation for or satisfaction with doing hard things that leave us exhausted and hurting, or emotionally drained. We’ve lost our satisfaction in sweating and working with our bodies.

So we take no risks, we don’t push ourselves, we don’t try new things, and we avoid situations that have the potential to cause any of those fears or feelings I just listed.

Because in a nutshell: we don’t like being uncomfortable.

How much we miss.

This year has been a growing time for me in this regard. I’ve faced some fears head-on – fears of being uncomfortable (physically, mentally, emotionally), fears of being thought to be foolish, fears of looking stupid and failing, of hurting, of exhaustion, fears of being out of place and out of my league and in over my head. I’ve faced my natural dislike of discomfort and embraced it, only to discover that the discomfort I feared has been significantly overshadowed by the satisfaction of doing something hard and doing it with enthusiasm.

If you’ve never read any Pat McManus, now is the time to change that. Some dear friends of mine introduced me to his book, A Fine and Pleasant Misery, in which he writes with clever dryness in Chapter 1 about how the point of camping used to be the misery, and being able to share misery stories afterwards. It used to be the roots in the back, the smoke in the eyes, the mosquitoes and cold and waking up wet. It was miserable, of course. That was part of the fun. Yet camping has evolved to be something where people leave their comfortable homes in their comfortable cars to go on a comfortable camping trip, somehow trying to avoid all the discomforts that naturally should crop up when leaving the comforts of home.

When did we as a culture collectively lose our taste for misery, our tolerance of discomfort, our enjoyment of the hard challenge? When did comfort become the priority? Now, maybe to a certain extent I’m romanticizing the 19th century, my favorite time period, the era of pioneers and mountain men and cowboys and explorers and miners….But think about the pioneers. Those were average families, they weren’t adventurers by trade. They packed up what few belongings they had and their whole family into a rattletrap covered wagon which became their home. For months. They slept on the ground. They walked hundreds of miles. They sweated. They were hungry. They went without. They were sunburned and windburned and freezing cold. They were uncomfortable, in ways most of us can only try to fathom. But they did it. Because there was something they desired more than comfort.

I’m tired of comfortable. I want to sweat, to be sore, to feel, to fear, to ache, to be bone-tired, have burned skin, a messy ponytail, a muddy, sweat-streaked face, dirt under my fingernails, and strong muscles. I love doing something abnormally strenuous and waking the next morning feeling like I’ve been hit by a truck. I love the sense of satisfaction when I realize what I’ve put my body through and that I actually survived and feel better for it. I could have avoided the discomfort, avoided the risk, and missed out on that delightful taste of satisfaction.

And so I come in from the garden, mopping sweat from my face, I look at the thermometer outside and the thermometer inside and groan a little, and see all the little nasty bugs swarming around our kitchen light (they migrate to my bedside table as soon as the downstairs lights are off and my bedside light is on), I feel the trickle of sweat while doing dishes, and I smile wryly. I’m thankful for discomfort.

Thankful for this fine and pleasant misery.

Hiking | Poet’s Table, Little Devil’s Tower, Cathedral Spires

Not everything goes as planned, no matter how carefully the plan is crafted. We had a little miscommunication and our hiking group ended up in three separate groups all hiking at different times. And in the Black Hills, cell reception is extremely spotty, so even though we only miscommunicated by about a mile, it wasn’t easy straightening things out. We did meet up and hiked most of the way mostly together, but we got a chuckle out of our miscommunication.
2018-09-03_04-42-33The hike was supposed to include only Little Devil’s Tower and Cathedral Spires, but due to some extra time, Axel and I sneaked in Poet’s Table as well before the three groups managed to get back together. Poet’s Table was recently the subject of a vandalism, when a few girls actually sawed the table in half and carried it away, along with all the decades of notebooks stored in the cupboard. Needless to say, there was some significant backlash, to the point that the whole situation was utterly ridiculous, but at least there is a new table now, and a plaque was added with a short poem by John Raeck, the Vagabond Poet, who founded Poet’s Table decades ago:

“A castle that secluded lies
Beyond the gates of Paradise,
A soul-restoring mountain ark
In South Dakota’s Custer Park;
Where time and life are reconciled,
And man-of-years is like a child.”

~The Vagabond Poet, John Raeck2018-09-03_10-13-59To the west, the sky was looking somewhat ominous, but I decided to risk it and stated boldly, “Oh, it doesn’t really look like rain.”

It rained.

Half an hour later, when we had met up with some of the rest of our group, the sky was darker and we began to get sprinkled on. It picked up until it was a happy little gusty thunderstorm. I was sure thrilled with the White Sierra rain jacket I had found at a thrift store in Bozeman! Things were clearing up pretty well when we met up with the last two in our group, who had actually waited out the storm on or near Little Devil’s Tower, but were game enough to climb back up to the top with the rest of us. And yes, it is a climb. Not a long one, but definitely a hands and feet kind of scramble at times. Gale force winds met us on the way up, but calmed down over the next twenty minutes, as the rest of the storm pushed east. The 360 degree view from Little Devil’s Tower was incredible, with the storm working its way mostly south of us, the glories streaming through holes in the clouds, and virga on the edges of the bands of clouds. We reveled in the glorious views of Harney Peak, the Cathedral Spires, and distant hills. The storm pushed the smoke from the western fires away, and we enjoyed the sight of blue skies overhead. 2018-09-03_04-42-082018-09-03_04-35-272018-09-03_04-42-222018-09-03_04-36-282018-09-03_04-35-502018-09-03_04-36-08The sun was very westward when we hiked into the Cathedral Spires, which is a beautiful, short hike, with some steady elevation gain. I love how different the terrain and landscapes will be within such a short area, from the wide meadows and open hillsides around Little Devil’s Tower, to the sheltered, tree clad slopes around the Cathedral Spires. Some climbers clung like spiders to the sheer rock faces of the Spires, and a few mountain goats meandered down a little lower near the trail. Chokecherries were thick along parts of the trail. 2018-09-03_04-32-392018-09-03_04-33-492018-09-03_04-34-592018-09-03_04-33-342018-09-03_04-34-19These trails are often mentioned individually as destinations, but the three together made for a wonderful afternoon hike. We got back to the trail head around 8pm, with dusk settling and the cool air moving in. The summer is fading fast, but while it is here, we’ll enjoy it!

Hiking | Sunday Gulch

I don’t know how I’ve spent so much time hiking in the Hills and hadn’t hiked Sunday Gulch. It just may be now my favorite hike in the Hills. It may have supplanted Hell Canyon as #1, believe it or not. It also happens to be one of the eight hikes on the Custer State Park Trail Challenge, but unfortunately we kind of forgot about that and didn’t find the bronze relief medallion to take a rubbing as proof that we did the hike. Oh, well.
IMG_0350eSunday Gulch is rated as moderately strenuous, and is mapped at 3.9 miles in length. The trailhead is at the far end of Sylvan Lake. Due to the steep and rugged bouldered part of the trail, I definitely wouldn’t recommend it for kiddos with their little legs, but it is a doable hike, for sure. We hiked the loop clockwise, leaving the steep stuff for the end, but hiking it counterclockwise would get that all over with in the first half hour or forty-five minutes. It was the perfect length for an afternoon, and I’m guessing will be particularly stunning on an autumn day, due to the large number of hardwoods that will turn color before too long! We’ll have to hike it again, clearly.IMG_0352eWe hiked Sunday Gulch on a very rainy, wet afternoon, just after a heavy downpour and during the ensuing drizzle, listening to gentle grumblings of thunder and the patter of raindrops on our waterproofs. The clouds were low and hung low over and between the tops of mountains and granite spires. The first half of the trail, if you hike the loop clockwise, winds through granite spires and formations, along a creekbed, through open and forested terrain. Some great views of the Hills are visible in the first half mile or so.IMG_0345eThe trail, due to the rain during and for weeks previous to this hike, was in many places a muddy, soggy, puddled mess. And slippery. At times the trail narrowed to little more than a deer trail, with wet shrubby undergrowth nearly overgrowing the trail. I tried to keep my feet dry for awhile, but eventually even the waterproofing on my boots wasn’t enough to keep out all the wet. Which was fine.IMG_0362eIMG_0357eThe first half of the hike is beautiful, of course (it’s the Black Hills, after all), but when the trail finally emerges in the gulch, the trail is breathtaking. Here in particular, the trail became rather mysterious, and we could see under the not-gently flowing water the trail was there somewhere. Beautiful, moss-draped trees towered up between the walls of Sunday Gulch, and little rivulets of water spilled delicately down the faces of the rock. Ferns clung in closely to the damp earth. The creek chattered noisily, the waterfalls churned, and still the rain fell gently.IMG_0372eIMG_0405e

IMG_0412eIMG_0384eAfter the gulch, the fun begins. The trail climbs rather steeply through a bouldered creekbed. Although I generally like trails with no manmade helps, the handrails were nice, particularly given how slippery the boulders were, and it was helpful that it marked a route up. The boulders were big enough in places that finding a route through them, particularly with a creek flowing through them, would have been pretty laborious. I’m guessing this trail is usually drier, with the creek generally well-contained. But as I mentioned, we’ve had a wet summer, and this was a wet day. In many places, water was flowing over the bouldered trail. Keeping dry feet no longer seemed as important.IMG_0428eIMG_0432eThe following pictures are of my favorite part in the trail, simply due to humor. Yes, that’s the trail, or was the trail, going between those two boulders. Dryness no longer seemed even remotely important. It was entirely futile to even attempt to keep dry, so we embraced the water. Under the little waterfall is a staircase. We all got quite wet.IMG_0443eIMG_0446eIMG_0447eThe loop trail starts and ends at Sylvan Lake, and we emerged into a silvery drifting fog bank that enveloped and released the spires across the Lake. We drove down to Custer to get ice cream, but some of us were absolutely freezing by this time, since we been soaked and were now evaporating. Coffee and a muffin sounded better than ice cream. So we stopped at the Bank Coffee House in Custer, a historic bank that was renovated to be a coffee shop. They have coffee and ice cream. Excellent.IMG_0461eIMG_0524eWhat a wonderful, glorious, wet, cold, rainy, humid, delightful day.

 

 

Wyoming/Montana Adventure | Wyoming Sunrise

While on our way back from Bozeman, MT, mom, the girls, and I stopped in Lovell, WY, for two nights, and explored Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area. Definitely a worthwhile exploration. So early on the first morning we were there, Sarah and I decided to go on a sunrise drive, stopping at a gas station for coffee while it was still dark, driving along a remote highway until we found a place to see the sunrise, watching as the sky gradually grew silver, then rosy, watching as the landscape emerged from shadows. I love how expansive the landscape is, and how desert-like.
IMG_0734eIMG_0772eIMG_0764e The sunrise colors were beautiful and pale, muted by the atmospheric smoke, but bringing out all the pale loveliness of the landscape, the pastel hues, pale greens and mauves and golds. Being a lover of growing things, I always delight in the differences in flora from one region to the next, and something about the low-growing, scrubby vegetation sparkles in my imagination, as unremarkable as it is. It is the landscape of the west, of the novels and history that have captured my mind for so many years…and now it is the landscape and flora of home.

The beauty of the west.